AYURVEDA · NATURAL SKINCARE

A simple homemade Ayurvedic lip balm recipe using ghee, sesame oil and shea butter to help soften, smooth and protect dry, cracked lips.

Because no one likes a dry lip.

I have a predominantly Vata constitution, which means I’m naturally more prone to dry, cold skin. Combine that with the dry, cold qualities of autumn and it’s a recipe for a skin disaster!

I feel like as soon as we hit the autumn equinox my lips take a dramatic turn – for the worse – and no matter how many times I apply lip balm, it feels as though they just keep getting worse. Sound familiar?

So why are our lips particularly vulnerable at this time of year? Before I share my go-to homemade Ayurvedic lip balm, let’s look at what is actually happening to our lips as the seasons change, and how a little Ayurvedic wisdom can help.

Why do lips get dry and cracked? 

Our lips are one of the most vulnerable areas of our face. Unlike much of the skin on our face, the visible part of our lips doesn’t have oil producing sebaceous glands to keep them naturally lubricated, and the outer protective layer is considerably thinner, making them particularly susceptible to moisture loss.

As temperatures drop and we spend more time indoors (with the heating on) the combination of cold outdoor air and low indoor humidity can increase moisture loss from the lips. Add in cold winds, mouth breathing when we are congested and the habit of repeatedly licking our lips when they feel dry, and its little wonder they can end up feeling so sensitive.

And while reaching for a lip-balm seems like the obvious solution, not all lip balms are helpful. Some contain ingredients such as menthol, camphor, peppermint oil, and fragrances that can aggravate dryness and sensitivity. That cooling or tingling sensation we sometimes associate with a product working may, in fact, be a sign of irritation.

Introducing one of my favourite remedies – ghee

Anyone who knows me will know there are not many ailments for which I haven’t suggested a little ghee as the answer! Yes, I’m obsessed, but there is good reason for that.

Ghee, known as Ghrita in Sanskrit, has been used for centuries in Ayurvedic medicine, both internally and externally. It is particularly valued for its snigdha, or unctuous quality, traditionally used to counteract dryness and roughness. In Indian households, applying a little ghee to dry lips before bed has long been a familiar practice, and it’s one of the simplest examples of how Ayurvedic self-care can be incorporated into everyday life.

The use of oils and fats to lubricate and soften the body is known as Snehana, or oleation. It’s a practise that extends beyond skincare, but the principle is particularly relevant during the colder months, when our skin is more exposed to the drying effects of the environment.

Why make your own lip balm?

Ive spent years reaching for lip balms whenever my lips start feeling dry, but something I’ve become increasingly conscious of is how many potentially irritating ingredients can find their way into even the simplest everyday skincare products.

If you cant eat it, don’t put it on your skin

Its an age-old saying that serves as a useful reminder to be more conscious of what we are applying to our bodies, particularly our lips where small amounts of whatever we apply inevitably gets swallowed throughout the day.

For this recipe, I’ve combined three ingredients – ghee, sesame oil and shea butter – to create a rich homemade balm that helps soften, smooth and protect. And the best part is that it takes around ten minutes to prepare.

Homemade Ayurvedic Lip Balm Recipe

MAKES: One small 25g pot | PREPARATION 5 minutes | COOKING 10 minutes | BEST FOR Autumn / Winter | DOSHA Tridoshic

Ingredients

• 15g pure shea butter

• 7g ghee


• 3g cold-pressed sesame oil

Optional: Add a few drops of cosmetic grade vitamin E (tocopherol) for additional support

Preparation & Method

1. Prepare your ingredients
Measure the shea butter, ghee and sesame oil, making sure your glass jar and utensils are clean and completely dry.

2. Melt the shea butter
Place the shea butter in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of gently simmering water, allowing it to melt slowly over a low heat.

3. Add the ghee and sesame oil
Once the shea butter has melted, add the ghee and sesame oil, stirring until everything is combined.

4. Allow to cool slightly
Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool slightly. If using vitamin E, add it once the mixture has cooled. Pour into a small, clean, dry glass jar and leave to cool completely until the balm has set. The finished balm should be soft and creamy, firming slightly as it cools.

How to use your Ayurvedic lip balm

Apply a small amount throughout the day whenever your lips feel dry, particularly before heading outside. I also like applying a slightly thicker layer before bed, giving the lips a little extra protection overnight and helping them feel softer and smoother by morning.

Why these three ingredients?

Ghee – Ghrita

Ghee is composed primarily of fats, including saturated and monounsaturated fatty acids. These help it act as an emollient, softening rough skin, while leaving a thin lipid layer that helps seal moisture.

Sesame Oil – Tila Taila

Sesame oil contains a high proportion of oleic acid and linoleic acid, two fatty acids that contribute to its emollient properties. Sesame oil also contains naturally occurring compounds such as sesame, sesame, and tocopherols, which have antioxidant properties.

Shea Butter

Shea butter contains substantial amounts of stearic and oleic acids, alongside smaller amounts of palmitic and linoleic acids. These fats give shea butter it characteristic semi-solid consistency at room temperature and allow it to soften when warmed against the skin.

Make it Work for Your Dosha

Vata : Dry / Rough / Cracked
Vata is associated with coldness, dryness and roughness, making this the constitution the original recipe is particularly designed for.

keep the original recipe with the sesame oil and apply and slightly thicker layer before bed.

Pitta : Sensitive / Red
Pitta is associated with heat and intensity, and when aggravated may present with redness or sensitivity.

Replace the sesame oil with coconut oil. Avoid adding any essential oils or fragrances.

Kapha: Cool / Heavy
While Kapha constitutions may be less naturally prone to dryness, environmental conditions can still affect the lips.

Replace the sesame oil with jojoba oil for a lighter feeling finish.

Have You Made This Ayurvedic Lip Balm?

Have you tried making your own skincare before, or perhaps you’ve been using ghee on your lips for years?

Give it a try and leave a comment below – I’d love to hear how you get on!

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